September, 2009

Compex Mi Sport / Training — 1 Comment - by Natalie Berry
30
Sep 09

First try of my Compex MI Sport!

Yesterday evening I tried out my Compex mi-sport for the first time – I had been really looking forward to trying it out, especially since I had to endure 3 days in Milan knowing it was waiting at home for me in a box ready to be tried and tested!

I have decided to follow the training planner on the Compex website: http://planner.bycompex.com and have started by working on the “Preparation” period of the season with 15-20 hours of training in the first cycle.  I used the electrodes in the finger and wrist flexor positions and found it quite difficult to get the electrode positions just right on my left arm, yet my right arm was perfect on first placement! I think next time will be an opportunity to use the pen to work out the exact motor points rather than relying on the trial and error method.

Upon activation the sensation of the electrostimulation was a bit strange at first, but certainly not unpleasant! I used the Strength programme at level 3 and made sure that my arms were under a strap to prevent any sudden reflexes. After reading that the contractions should be set as hard as you can bear, I think I may need to increase the level next time! I trained at the wall this evening and felt no aches or pain after using the device, which is a good sign but equally I am sure that I should be a bit braver and increase the levels next time!

Competition / Training — No Comments - by Natalie Berry
30
Sep 09

European Youth Series, Edinburgh

Last weekend I competed in the 3rd round of the European Youth Series at EICA Ratho, Edinburgh. I had been especially looking forward to this event on the calendar due to it taking place in my home climbing arena and in front of a home crowd!

After qualifying in 6th place for the finals (my first entry into a final for over a year after setbacks such as 5 -week recovery period after a hernia operation in April and exams/schoolwork) I was incredibly psyched to push myself and gain a podium finish.

Unfortunately I picked up a minor wrist injury on my second qualification route, and there was some doubt as to whether I would be able to compete the following day.  After lots of ice and heat treatment and a good rest the injury had recovered just in time. In competition climbing the finals are always “on-sight”-which means that the competitors are held together in an “isolation” zone with no prior knowledge as to how others have climbed the route, apart from a 6-minute group observation period where the route is viewed and climbers can work out the best method to complete it, either alone or through consulting their fellow competitors.

I felt calm and confident as I walked out to climb in front of a very enthusiastic crowd, consisting primarily of British people – the GB Team, local Edinburgh climbers and press. The volume of their screams and shouts spurred me on to keep climbing through some powerful moves, and I really appreciated their support.

I achieved 4th place, missing out  on a podium place despite coming 3rd equal in the final due to countback (where the competitor I was equal with qualified in a higher position in the earlier rounds). In all the competition was great fun and showed that my training has been picking up again! I can’t wait to start using my Compex mi-Sport, Bring on the next round of the EYS in Kranj, Slovenia in November!

Credit: Will Carroll

Photo Credit: Will Carroll

Competition / Training — No Comments - by Natalie Berry
24
Sep 09

Natalie Berry, Star Climber – an introduction

Natalie Berry, GB Climbing StarName: Natalie Berry
Age: 17
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Sport: Climbing

Best competition results:

  • 6 x British Champion
  • 1st – European Youth Series round in Kranj, Slovenia 2007
  • 3rd Overall in Europe 2007
  • 3rd Overall in Europe 2006
  • Total of 1 x Gold, 2 x Silver and 3 x Bronze medals from European events
  • 4th – World Youth Championships 2005, Imst, Austria

Training:

  • 4 x sessions per week of training indoors at EICA Ratho and Glasgow Climbing Centre, including:
  • Forearm endurance (anaerobic endurance, repeating climbs up to 5 times with one minute’s rest between attempts)
  • Bouldering (hard powerful moves)
  • Working on hard routes
  • Light weight training 2-3 times per week plus pull-ups and fingerboard training every day.

Occupation:

Student currently on Gap Year before going to University in 2010 to study Modern Languages.

Natalie Berry on Mountain